Prague: beer culture without the tourist tax

Czech beer culture is a UNESCO-worthy institution: the country drinks more beer per head than anywhere on Earth, and a properly poured pilsner (three-finger foam, wet glass) costs €2–3 in a local pub — if you're paying €6+ within sight of the Astronomical Clock, you're the product.

Order like a local: 'pivo' gets you the house lager; a 'malé' is small. In classic pubs the waiter tallies your beers on a paper slip and keeps them coming until you say stop.

Where: Lokál (tank-fresh Urquell, several branches), Letná beer garden for the view, U Slovanské lípy in Žižkov for the price of nostalgia.

Food to pair: svíčková (beef in cream sauce with dumplings), guláš, smažený sýr (fried cheese — the 2am classic), and chlebíčky (open sandwiches) for lunch.

Skip / instead: skip the 'medieval tavern' dinner shows; instead book a normal hospoda in Vinohrady and let the neighborhood do the atmosphere.